Hanoi Press Club : Best Steak

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Hanoi : August 2004 : Journeying to the Perfume Pagoda

A full day hiking tour including ‘hotel’ pick up, transport and lunch for a steal of USD8. ‘Hotel’ pick up arrived, verified the payment and lead us to the bus – after walking another 3 blocks to pick up more people. Everyone on the bus clapped after it departed, an hour late because there were missing tourists.

Driving through paddy fields and rural Vietnamese towns, we were then rowed upstream in meditative silence except for the sound of oar hitting on water by strong local women. We were all freezing amongst the sweeping views of limestone formations, a slight overcast and heavy drizzle had us all soaked.

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The real pilgrimage had only begun. I am definitely sure that it took more than 30 minutes, as advised by the Vietnamese guide, to arrive up at the Perfume Pagoda cave. The path was wet, rain was pouring and where is that Pagoda??

Finally we arrived at cave’s large chambers like an open mouth ready to swallow all those who arrived with weary legs. No ornate or imposing pagoda was to be seen though. After such a challenging journey, I learnt that the pagoda was located in the cave’s deep creases with barely any light. I have extreme fear of caves! Maybe it was punishment, I never saw the revered Perfume Pagoda and I had the hardest fall on the way down on the slippery rocks.

A wholesome meal would be the cure to the excruciating pain on my behind, with that I sat down for dinner at The Restaurant, Hanoi Press Club. It was too late to leave, after turning the menu’s pages, eyes widening at its way-over-the-budget prices. A big sigh later, I ordered myself 250g slice of Argentinian Angus steak.

Maybe the harsher the day, the better the food. That night, it was orgasmic delight in my mouth, on the dining table.