Eating thru Catalunya

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steps leading down to Le Bistrot, Girona

I must say the culinary standards in the Catalunya region ride higher above average.  Failure to perform and impress can get difficult given their approach of seeking the freshest ingredients and the marrying combinations we never would quite expect and yet remaining accessible and vividly flavoured.

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Artesan Olive Focaccia with Jamón

At Bon Retorn Restaurant, my dish was first layered with thin slices of pork ears terrine, prawns and a handful of seasonal mushrooms lightly sauteed in olive oil and salt.  They take a lot of pride and derive also their pleasures from having the Mediterranean sea line their coast.  Coupled with their mastery of layering flavours, Catalan cuisine is what many have called, an undiscovered gem. 

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Pulpo a la Gallega

When I arrived into Barcelona, I have to admit to a plan of sampling Michelin-starred Catalan cuisine, a plan that slowly dissolved as slowly bite by bite I acquainted myself with the region’s offerings.  I was delectably smitten and swooned off my feet!  My experience may be different from yours and others that have been similarly won over by Catalan cuisine as I got to know it better when eating out of Barcelona.  Most of the restaurants we sampled were recommendations by generous locals we stopped along the street to ask, “¡Disculpe! ¿Un restaurant muy bueno y barato cerca de aqui?” (“Excuse me, do you know a reasonable and good restaurant around here?”)

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Guardians at la cathedral de Tarragona

OLOT | El Mig (www.elmig.cat) occupies a modern and contempary space at Placa del Mig and we chanced upon it as we stopped a local woman after successfully finding a spot to park.  Their daily menu of three courses costing €13 was extremely good valued for the food we enjoyed. Oh and the dessert, flan!

GIRONA | Cafè Le Bistrot (Pujada Sant Domènec 4) sits along the steps leading up to the cathedral.  Don’t expect a pizza when ordering one, their version comes with it’s toppings gratinated on a toast.

LA BISBAL D’EMPORDA | Els Fogons (Calle Cavallers 22) was recommended by a silvered hair man which we enjoyed excellent paella, bacalao and crema catalana.  Only locals at sight.  Once again about €13 for their daily three course menu!

FIGUERES | Bon Retorn Restaurant (www.bonretorn.com) is situated in a hotel of the same name.  By far the most formal (and expensive!) restaurant in my entire trip with professional and a slightly tight upper lip service but a fine example of the region’s potential.

TARRAGONA | A restaurant bar along Carrer del Pon d’Icart that a good friend JC took us to in his birth town.  Almost deserted on a Sunday, we drank unlabelled and locally bottled white wine with many servings of tapas!